Notes from a Biodynamic Composting Workshop
February 9th, 2009Having just attended a biodynamic composting workshop this weekend at Michael Hall School in Forest Row I thought I’d write up my notes seeing I found it such a valuable and interesting workshop.
- The carbon (solid stuff) – nitrogen balance is key to a successful compost whatever the size. Ideally the ratio should be 30:1 or 25:1.
- A compost requires warmth. Ideally start a new compost in the summer, this will give the compost a good start which should carry on through the cold months.
- It can be difficult to maintain warmth in very small composts. The ideal size is 1sqm.
- Turn your compost every time you add kitchen waste and chop your waste finely to speed up the process as this will reduce the surface area of the things the bacteria/micro-organisms needs to decompose/digest.
- Don’t add citrus peel as they will go mouldy which in turn produces anti-bacteria and so will not break down.
- Worm composts can be created for cooked food but will require a bedding of cardboard, leaves and lime (crushed eggshell) adding every so often.
- To ensure all/or most worms have left the compost let it dry out or take the compost from the bottom which will have less worms. These worms are compost worms and will not survive away from the compost environment.
- Interesting fact: Cow manure is best used on the land where it was digested.
- NEVER USE NON-ORGANIC HORSE OR COW MANURE. The reason for this is that many horses may have been given drugs (antibiotics) and so extracts may appear in manure. Using this will be counter-productive for your soil.
- Adding chicken pellets/manure to your compost is extremely beneficial. When short on nitrogen sprinkle some on your compost. Don’t use chicken manure in kitchen waste composts.
- You can add cardboard but only black prints as the coloured prints contain toxic metals.
- When making a manure compost build it up in layers starting with a foot of manure then a layer of soil (couple of inches) followed by a foot of manure and so on. On each layer add some rock dust which can be bought at www.greenfingers.com. Manure compost is best for heavy feeders i.e. cabbage.
- NEVER add lime to a manure compost. A chemical reaction creates ammonium which is extremely bad for your soil and plants.
- Composts mature in the dark so keeping it covered is a good idea. Using a compost fleece will suppress weeds, keep the warmth in and will stop the compost becoming too moist. Too much moisture will push the air out making it anaerobic.
- Leaf mould is the best organic alternative to peat. It maintains moisture, but not to the level of peat, and so is ideal for using for seed composts. 50:50 ratio of leaf mould:standard compost. Leaf moulds will take 2 – 3/1/2 years to compost.
- Add lime, water and chicken manure to each layer your leaf mould. This will help the composting and balance the pH as the leaf mould can be quite acidic if left to it’s own devices.
- When making straw and wood chip composts always add water and chicken manure to each layer.
- Wood chip compost is good for suppressing weeds.
- Adding chicken manure to compost is better than applying it straight to the soil as it will be broken down in the compost ensuring the nutrients will not be leached once applied and will act as a slow release fertiliser.
- ADD LITTLE COMPOST BUT OFTEN MAKING SURE THERE IS VARIETY. Also don’t dig it in too deep, ideally just leave it on the top.
- Adding pampas grass (Cortaderia selloana) is great for your phosphorus content which is much needed when growing sweetcorn, tomatoes, and fruit.